Should you use lawn weed-control in the winter? The answer depends on the situation - NOLA.com
Garden columnist Dan Gill answers readers' questions each week. To send a question, email Gill at gnogardening@agcenter.lsu.edu.
My lawn is infested with dollarweed and clovers, but is it really worth it to do weed control right now in winter months? — Mark Jefferies
Weed control is best done when a problem with weeds is bad enough to warrant control efforts — spring, summer, fall and winter, as needed.
If you have a minor problem with dollarweed and clover that is not worth treating, you do not need to apply an herbicide now if you don't want to. If, on the other hand, you have enough weed issues to warrant treatment, there is no use waiting and allowing the weeds to continue to grow, spread and damage your lawn. In that case, treatment now is recommended.
Garden columnist Dan Gill answers readers' questions each week. To send a question, email Gill at gnogardening@agcenter.lsu.edu.
Atrazine is the best herbicide for dollarweed and clovers and can be used on St. Augustine and centipede when temperatures are above 60 degrees.
My landscaper planted hydrangeas in my front yard in August. Unfortunately, now I'm seeing black spots on the leaves. Is this a fungus? Should I be doing something to the soil to alleviate the spots? They've grown into nice full plants, but now I'm worried they won't survive. — Jessie Gramm
Hydrangeas are deciduous and normally drop their leaves in winter. The leaves often look sickly if they persist into the winter, which they often do here because of our mild winters. There is no need to spray a fungicide now. You can physically remove the leaves by picking them off and disposing of them.
It is normal for hydrangeas to be leafless this time of the year. Removing these leaves removes the fungal infections causing the spots and lowers the chances of leaf infections this summer. The life of the shrubs is in no danger from this. If leaf spot (often Cercospora) shows up during the growing season, spray several times with chlorothalonil to control the disease.
Garden columnist Dan Gill answers readers' questions each week. To send a question, email Gill at gnogardening@agcenter.lsu.edu.
I have two hybrid tea roses that I would like to transplant to a sunnier location for better blooming. They have been in the ground about six to 10 years. Should I try to do this, and when would be the best time? — Matt Waverly
Now would be an excellent time to move the roses as it is also time to prune them. Cut the bushes back to about 2 feet from the ground. This will make it much easier to handle them during the move.
Dig them up, getting as much of the root system as you practically can (getting enough roots is critical to the survival of the roses). Have the new location already prepared and ready to plant — replant the roses immediately. Do not allow the roots to dry once the bushes are dug up.
Roses are tough and generally transplant successfully, so I'd be optimistic about your success. Pay attention to watering as needed in spring and summer as the transplanted roses recover.
Garden columnist Dan Gill answers readers' questions each week. To send a question, email Gill at gnogardening@agcenter.lsu.edu.
I live on the north shore and notice damage to tropical plants in my landscape after the recent freezes. How should I handle the damage? — Geri Simmons
Do not prune anything for a week or more after a freeze. It often takes a week or so for all of the damage to become evident. Damaged growth on herbaceous or nonwoody tropical plants, such as cannas, elephant ears, birds-of-paradise, begonias, impatiens, philodendron and gingers, may be pruned away back to living tissue.
Generally, it's a good idea to delay hard pruning of woody tropical plants, such as hibiscus, tibouchina, angel trumpet, croton, ixora, schefflera, copper plant and rubber tree, until new growth begins in the spring, and you can more accurately determine which parts are alive and what is dead.
If you can clearly determine what branches are dead on a woody plant, you can prune them back now. Try scratching the bark with your thumbnail. If the tissue underneath is green, it's still alive. If the tissue is tan or brown the branch is dead. Start at the top and work your way down to see how far back the plant was killed.
Garden tips
WEED ADVICE: Cool-season weeds grow in lawns during the winter, especially when the weather is mild and there is abundant rain. The green weeds are really noticeable against the dormant turf. Do not use weed and feed (weed killer combined with a fertilizer) to control the weeds. It is far too early to fertilize warm-season grasses.
Cool-season annual weeds can be managed by just mowing occasionally.
Cool-season perennial weeds, such as dollarweed and clover, are more competitive with the lawn.
Use a lawn herbicide labeled for use on the type of grass you have. Apply during a mild spell when daytime highs are above 60 degrees, and follow label directions carefully. If you had problems with sticker weed last spring, now is the time to apply a weed killer to control them before they make the stickers.
ORDER ROSES NOW: If you plan on ordering roses from a mail-order company and haven't done so yet, order your roses now. Plant them into sunny, well-prepared beds as soon as you receive them.
TAKE CUTTINGS: Now is a good time to make hardwood cuttings of such plants as pears, figs and hydrangeas. Cuttings should be taken from the ends of branches and be 6 to 8 inches long.
THERE'S STILL TIME: Hardy bedding plants can still be planted now for color through the spring. Choose pansy, sweet alyssum, viola, snapdragon, stock, dianthus, petunia, candytuft, lobelia, annual phlox and others available at nurseries.
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